Working through a complete re-dye on a Nissan Titan driver seat – If you ever attempt a total re-dye get an airbrush – it is a game changer for the final coat. So a few new things I have learned, the use of hog rings at strategic locations will change your ability to elevate the look of the upholstery. Heat guns can sometimes help with wrinkles. And I watched someone dying real leather with a new technique using a sponge and circular motion to apply the dye on real leather – I will try this on the base coat next time and not use the blot method on a total re-dye. And I learned something new watching another YT guy re-dye his Ford. He wet sanded his final product with 1000grit. I tried this yesterday using Dawn dish soap and 1000grit and I can say it works well. When using an airbrush the time and distance it takes for the dye to atomize is very short and spraying at distance will give your finish a rough hand (feel).
Here is the original light gray in the background – I redyed the entire seat cushion.
The install will be in a few weeks. I have to redye the upper seat once I get setup at a separate location and the driver seat will be removed from the Nissan to work on it outside the vehicle. What I really noticed is that the supplier has the right depth of gray/black, however if you use a matte finish clear coat protector it can change the color value of the original dye color a bit lighter – Color and grain, the two hardest things in automotive vinyl/leather repair.
